Kashmir..the name echoed in my mind.
It was not even in my distant dream, as even going to Kanchipuram which is just 100 kms away was not happening to me.
However when Peethambaran mentioned that his friend's were planning a Kashmir trip I was all excited and said a big 'YES' .
Peethambaran was initially not very happy with my response, probably he expected a 'NO' from me, with all the baggage's around me. He kept asking me, for reassurance whether I was really serious and I kept assuring in affirmative. By the way Peethambaran is my husband for those who don't know him. A Whats app group was created and all his friend's had booked the tickets. An excel sheet was created and all filled up their flight details. Only row empty was ours. So Peethambaran was still having doubts whether we would be really going. I had told him that I having hardly availed any of the LTC facility given by the Department ,in so many years, so I shall book the tickets as there were so many formalities in LTC ticket booking. I learned it hard way and Finally got the ticket booked by the same flight from Delhi to Srinagar ,same as all his Friends.
Now the fervor picked up for Peethambaran and he got really serious. Me as usual too busy with Office chores, hardly had time to think ,what to pack and when to pack etc. though back of my mind this thought was constantly lingering.
Peethambaran suggested that first we buy a suitcase. So that was our first shopping..I got a pastel pink and he got a Grey suitcase. Also we did some winter shopping at Decathalon, picked up a snow shoe, which happened to be a good buy. Since my daughter's room was empty I kept the suitcase opened and whenever anything which would be required for the trip came in to my hand, I dumped it in to the already opened suitcase. There was just two more days left and I had not really packed. Fortunately for me ,I thank whose ever the idea, the flight was planned for Sunday and so Saturday came as my savior. Peethambaran as usual ,very systematically well planned, packed and also seemed to be a bit concerned about my way of getting ready.
My friend landed up and we went on a shopping and brought some basics and lol, by Saturday evening my Suitcase was ready.
Just couldn't believe, until I sat in the flight to Delhi. It was Chennai-Delhi; Delhi-Srinagar. I pinched myself..yes ..it's true..I am going to Kashmir.Up to Delhi it was the usual trip. Of course, food was different and tasty. Somehow I like the food served in Air India flights.
From Delhi we had the flight transfer. Again Security,long ques..but we had adequate changeover time.I had kept all the warm clothing in one small cabin baggage. There was enough guidance in the group. Thanks to our Guide and friends.
It was a surprise for many of his friend's, when they saw us, also, in the same Delhi Srinagar flight as theirs..almost all of them from Ernakulam.
Initially it was calm before the Storm.. all exchanging pleasantries...and got settled. I looked at a Kashmiri looking person. He was wearing a sweater and a cap. So I also decided to wear the same ,thinking he would know how to dress while going to his place. So now all set and ready and started off. Again the food was more of North Indian feel. Different and tasty. Finally we almost reached our destination-Srinagar. As we zoomed over Srinagar, first time in my life, I saw snow capped majestic mountain ranges..what a stunning view..it was ethereal! I migrated to some other world itself. Finally our onward air journey was closing up , and we landed at Srinagar Airport. All of us were very highly excited. The storm had just began.
It is a very small airport.. and due to many flights at the same time, very much crowded. All thronged the baggage Conveyor. What I noticed was that, most of them had their trolley so close to the Conveyor, that there were no place for other people to stand and pick up their bags. This created more chaos.
For the fact that Srinagar opened to the Public just two years back, and considering the amount of hardship and uncertainties they had to endure, I believe that in the years to come, it would be more organized.
Our agent was ready with Force Traveler and all of us jumped in to it excitedly.
Our first stop was at Dal lake. We reached early evening. The shikaras were waiting, and all of us had one house boat, to be shared by three families. There was a common hall, dining and three individual rooms. The rooms were well carpeted. Each room had a heater based on Chullah system. Water was also warm. Bed heaters were also in place to keep us warm The houses boat we stayed was called ' Acropolis'. We were excited and at the same time a bit tired. We rested and decided to meet by 7.00 P.M ,as it was the month of Ramdan, and all of them would go for fast breaking . By 6.30, all of us had gathered at the houseboat of Raphael and Sajeetha..all having a great time over wine.There was homemade wine brought by Sajeetha...we had good time ,and off to the Shikara ride on the Dal lake.
It was early night by the time we started off. The reflection of the lights on the Dal lake and the serenity and the cool breeze left us spellbound. We also got to view the floating market in the Dal lake. It was a beautiful spread of creativity of various hand works on display and that too in the water market! Quite an experience, unique by itself. After that, back to our houseboat and had dinner at the houseboat. The stuffed parathas with mutton was too local and authentic. In one word ‘Heavenly’. But I understand, in certain boats, food was not that great. Anyway I really enjoyed my dinner.
Next day we went to a place called Pampora and a shop by name ‘Transmart’ for the demonstration on saffron and ‘shilajeet” which is got from rock and supposedly heals all the ailment according to them. All of us made heavy Purchases. I Purchased saffron, Kawa a kind of tea powder, cranberry and dry fruits the bill totaled 5250/_ which after the buy I felt a little bit of guilt. Of course the dry fruits were really good. They also offered us saffron Tea with dry fruits in it. It was healthy and tasty.
From there we went to Apple Valley..
It was not Apple season. All the trees had shed leaves and were looking barren and dry. Anyway we had an idea how Apple is grown. They were selling various kinds of Apple delicacies including pickle, jam, spread etc etc.
From there we went to a roadside Dhaba for lunch. After lunch, we went to Pehalgam. We reached around evening. Our stay was at Aska Resort amidst Pine trees. Behind a river was flowing leaving musical notes as it moved forward .There were more Ravens out there and their cry was significantly different from the Ravens down south. Here the room did not have room heater and we got the taste of Kashmir chillness. Of course the beds had heater, so at least in bed ,we were warm. Late that night we had bon fire, with different kinds of spirits flowing.. children kept the gathering lively and men went back in time, with nostalgic memories overflowing and recounted..all seemed so content and happy..it appeared the clock had stopped 40 years back.
Next day in our itinerary was to traverse the mountains, to reach Biasaren Valley, also called the Mini Switzerland. Not all agreed for the climb up and many of us totally unaware what awaited us decided to go very excitedly. We had to get on to a horse, and I was quite skeptical about how I would climb the horse ,and even before I realized I was literally put on the horse. A small boy of 16 yrs was my horse keeper along ,with the responsibility of holding another horse on which sat Deepa Sunil. Initially it was fun going through the forest, but soon realized that we cannot get down the horse until we reached the destination, as the ground below was totally murky, slippery and dirty. The journey began, and to all our surprise it was an extremely steep vertical climb up with stones and murk through out. It was really frightening. I started to think of all my people at home, wondering whether I would really get to see them again. The boy left Deepa to herself on this steep climb and occasionally went behind to control. He was more with my horse. And Deepa's horse named AK47 turned out to be very disobedient. My horse once in a while wandered, as it like, when it saw water. It was thirsty, considering the adventure, we were enduring, but as it wandered I had butterflies in my stomach.
The beautiful moment was when I had the first sight of snow in my life here. The boy picked up a ball of ice and gave it to me..it was absolutely exhilarating feeling despite the dangerous trek we were going through. Occasionally he asked 'Majja ayya' and he would say 'aur be Majja ayega hum Jannet dikhayenga'. I wondered whether I would really see the real heaven considering the dangerous path. At one point all horses stopped, showed us some valley far away and that was also the point to take photos. All couples took couple pics with palms joining for love ❤ sign. Since my Peethambaran was safe down, they took a solo pic of me.
Finally we reached atop and lol what a beautiful sight...snow capped mountains valley had green grasses interspersed with snow here and there. Many played throwing snow at each other. Also there was Kashmiri dress for rent along with their jewelry. Most of us wore that dress, took flower basket, sheep, pigeon etc and took pictures. All felt we were as beautiful as the Kashmiris. Of course the kids really looked beautiful and challenged the Kashmiri beauties.A gush of heavy wind blew away all the tents, holding these attires,the shop owners ran behind picking them. There was a washroom on the top which we had to climb precariously to reach the same and with no place to even get in and the wind blowing it was also an adventure by itself .
Finally call came that it may rain anytime so time to go down. I thought there would be some other route, as the climb was too steep almost like a 'One' written in numerical,but only to realize that the climb down was through the same path. The boy arranged another of his friend to take care of Deepa Sunil and so the path down started. He told "asmaan me dekho aur tare gino' .out of fear automatically my head went up, and I was actually looking at the heaven and counting imaginary stars. The climb down lasted almost an hour, vertical straights, deep curves, it was really fearful and doubtful whether we would reach down in one piece. I decided in future, I should have fun but not at the expense of my life. Finally reached down safely with the guidance of the boy..
I realized those few hours I had given my life in the horse keeper's hands. Thanking God and the boy for having reached us safely bid adieu to the horsekeeper boy.
Next day was ice valley, betab Valley and finally Sonmarg. Morning after breakfast ,after an hour of travel we reached the plain of a mountain from where we trekked up and as we were approaching the mountain we started seeing snow capped rocks and the path itself was snow covered . It was quite slippery. But with the sight of full snow covered mountain ,I almost lost my senses, ‘Hosh ud Gaya’ and started climbing up. Only after reaching a particular distance, did I realize that it was a very difficult , with my heart palpitating, but my mind wanted to go up the mountain and with both my heart and head going in opposite directions,my head won and so went ahead. Another realization after climbing awhile was ,that only four of us had ventured to climb up.Myself, Manoj, Deepa Manoj and Raphael . My snow shoe really helped. It was quite a sunny day and with the snow all round ,I was very much happy that I could trek a snow mountain.
After some time decided to come down. A big question arose in our minds- how to come down, it was very slippery, no grip etc. So me and Deepa decided to slide down the climbed mountain. So me and Deepa together slid down and it was the most fun loving experience I had in my entire trip. Even after reaching down we kept falling while trying to come to the plains. Manoj really helped ,was trying to protect from not falling ,and giving tips where it would be more ideal to keep the foot, so that we won't fall. It was all just fantastic. My day was complete in all senses.
From there we started to Sonmarg, after lunch and reached Sonmarg in the evening time. Hardly there were any vehicles at that time. As we approached Sonmarg, we started getting very close to snow covered mountain and really experienced, what it meant to be in cold weather. Even the road was a small path with snow covered on both sides. I was totally mesmerized by the sight . I couldn't believe my eyes. I felt it was a dream world. Snow and Snow everywhere. The entire hemisphere was white and under the moon light, it was just too beautiful, even to pen it down. Our stay was at Sonmarg Palace. The path leading to the stay and the complete area was surrounded by Snow. Oh mine! For a person from Chennai this was unbelievable. The agent had told the hotel to keep Tea and pakodas ready and so we were treated to a lovely cup of tea and hot pakodas and with the snow all around us, It was just too exhilarating experience. Just out of the world. Night we had bonfire. There was wine and Antakshiri doing the rounds. Of course few of our friends had altitude issues and trying to cope up. Next day early morning I got up and went for the early morning view. It was a beautiful sunrise and I had Maallu and Pascal giving me company for the morning walk and exploring this beautiful piece of earth.
A river calmly flowed behind our Stay. The melody of the river, the sunrise and cries of Raven ,so many of them, exported us to a completely different experience. Our agent had told us we should get ready by 9.00 as otherwise it would get very crowded. All of us got ready had breakfast and ready for the day's adventures. The itinerary was to climb the ice capped mountains, and those who desire can go up to Thejjawas Glacier. Few of us opted for the second option. The travel was by ice bike . The person just speed of with the bike with one of us sitting behind. With my weight also, I thought I would just fly away. We reached the first point where they had made ice tajmahal very quickly though it was quite a distance. This appeared to be a valley atop the mountains! It was just snowwww only...the kids made ice man and all of us posed for the photos with the newly formed iceman. They also named it something. We were there for an hour or so where we really enjoyed the beautiful snow all around us, atop the snow mountain . Sometime later, again ice-bike took us to the Thejjawas Glacier. As I had not seen a Glacier before, I had imagined
water would be bubbling out of the earth in a Glacier. However Thejjawas Glacier appeared like a snow waterfall to my eyes. The ice biker was in too much hurry to go down. So as much as I searched for the Glacier of my imagination, he became totally impatient saying that he can get more customers and wish to go down immediately. Of course he on his own volunteered to take a pic of mine on the ice bike with the supposed to be Thejawwas Glacier in the backdrop, while I was keen to explore the place for some more time.
From what I saw I presume in the Summer months this water would melt and flow down as river and so the Glacier.
Then we came down . Going up was much easy. Coming down was something that shook my body as it was a steep jump, in the bike almost 50 feet, if I am correct and my second biker being in a hurry literally dropped me down. This had an effect on me physically. This was my individual experience based on the bikers capabilities and the route taken. Again they left us down the mountain, and we had to cross by walk a short distance, which was very slippery and most of us were falling down,despite proper snow shoes. Manoj risked himself and was trying to safeguard me from falling, as I saw in a video captured by another friend. Luckily I didn't fall and damage his hands.
Finally we were back in Sonmarg palace, and it was decided to leave immediately only to realize the crazy crowd of vehicles that landed up during the day. Almost 200 vehicles were waiting to come in.It was utterly crazy and only then I could really appreciate the acumen of the agent who had planned it so well and also ensured the plan was executed well.
From there we came back to Srinagar. We got down at the main road opposite Dal lake, went to a bakery..had the taste of several mouthwatering pastries and few of us had Tea . Walked past the Srinagar market and finally back to the room.
Evening we had a get together at a common courtyard of the hotel Taj. Had hot tea , pakodas and sandwiches. Totally exhausted I was especially due to the acrobatics I had done with the ice biker.
Next day was a trip to Gulmarg. I was getting geared up for the famous Gulmarg but there was a different plan for me, night I started feeling really sick and by morning
I was not in a position to move out of the bed. So Gulmarg eluded me. Peethambaran stayed with me. I had told him to join others who were going, but he didn't want to take risk leaving me alone. Thanking him for the thoughtfulness. But the irony of the situation though the hotel we were staying in was four star, by 10.00 the electricity was put off and with time no water as probably motor was not put after that . Though we complained several times this was the situation through out the day and after every one returned in the evening by 6.00 the electricity was restored. One of the employees said that since nobody would stay during the day the electricity is always put off..I do think if Srinagar has to attract more visitors this has to change. Anyway that day we had to survive the actual cold as the heater could not be put on neither could we take bath.But then every journey has its own flip side and so moved on without giving much importance. By evening I was feeling better. The other friends said Gulmarg was much more cold and at much higher altitude than Sonmarg and had a complete vast area of snow. We have to go by cable car. It's in two levels. We have to book the tickets in advance. This we have to do it ourselves when the bookings open. The agent will let us know when the booking would open. The ticket cost is approximately for first level and Rs for second level. The agent briefed in the evening itself to first take the first level cable car and after getting down without wasting time immediately take the second level cable car. After spending time in the second location come back by the second level car and then spend more time at the first level location. This he said was to ensure.......(I forgot please help me fill)
Our friends really enjoyed Gulmarg and the itinerary was to go shopping, so on the way back stopped at the cooperative market and did a lot of shopping. Carpets, embroidered dress materials etc.
Evening was pleasant had our dinner and planned for the next day.
Next day was the last day of our tour and the itinerary was Sankaracharya temple atop the mountain which we could see from the house boat while we stayed at Dal lake, visit to the Government emporium and lalchowk, if open Tulip garden and with that our tour program concludes.
I decided to get alright not to miss this. So morning all of us got ready. Up to a particular point we went by the vehicle, after that we have to climb up to reach the temple. Some of them stayed back in the bus.
Others started their climb up. It was quite steep and the road was narrow and vehicles on both sides hindered our walk. We had to maneuver our way through these heavy traffic. I couldn't walk very fast so was the last. Sunitha gave me company...almost all our friends were ahead of us...after climbing up for almost 45minutes, fatigued and thirsty, I saw an auto guy waiving to us to get in...oh what a relief it was We both jumped in to the auto and enroute picked up Sunil also and reached ahead of all.Again there was 240 steps to be climbed . It was a real test to our strength...anyway we climbed and up there again a few more steps and then we had the beautiful darsan of a huge Shivling with a silver serpent and Trishul...it was a great moment and all the tiredness of climb just vanished. After the darsan as we came down there was a small temple for Sankaracharya. It is believed that he meditated there and in honor of him this temple was constructed by an Army (I need help to fill up).
From there coming down was much easier, however as the road was dirty with murk, I alongwith with my better half and Deepa Sunil took an auto. Many of them walked down. Then we came down to Srinagar stopped at a Mithai shop(Name please help me fill) bought sweets which looked like apple, strawberry etc next stop was lunch. Many of them dined at Shamiyana. A few of us lunched at a restaurant just beside the Mithai shop.
I also wanted to eat at Shamiyana but I could see Peethambaran was very tired and just went with what he wanted.
From there we went to try our luck at Tulip garden. We were told it would open on 23rd March 2024 only and we were there on 22nd March. Deepa Sunil wanted atleast a look at Tulips and this wish was granted. From outside we could see different shades of Tulips bloomed..pink, peach, yellow ,but we couldn't really get the feeling of being in the garden as we just could get to glimpse from outside. Sunitha was not at all content and so next day she her husband Pradeep and Sarsan visited the garden in the morning as their flight was in the afternoon. Our flights were in the morning. From there we went to Government arts emporium. I wanted to buy a Pashmina shawl and when I saw the price tag 59000 I decided anyway I am in Chennai I don't need the shawl . They had shawls at a lower price range also but he explained that those were not original.
Pashmina wool is taken from the sheep's that live at an altitude of 15000 to 16000 feet above sea level. I bought some hand work made completely of chainstich. He said the whole work is hand done. Anyway I bought it as a memoir of Kashmir.
Most of them had already shopped at the cooperatives previous day which I missed.Next it was decided that all ladies would go to Lal chowk and men would go back to the hotel and have their time. Lal chowk had a clock tower. Initially we were lost not sure where and what to buy. Finally Rehana located a shop where suit materials were sold at a very reasonable price and Sajeetha bought a lot of stuff. Then we went to a wholesale shop and Rehana introduced me to something called ( ) which is made of wool and it has no shape or hands. It is just worn in to the neck. I also bought one and from there we searched for artificial jewelry shop and by
the time we located the shop ..the shop was closed. I don't know whether the shops out there close at 6.00 P.M or due to Ramdan all shop were closed and so we decided to go back to the hotel. The auto ride was more adventurous than all the other rides we had taken. It was just flying and the girls were laughing so much that the auto guys were all trying to impress and finally making a statement Kashmir vs Kerala who won. I don't know who won, but I think many of us had all our bones shook. There were many shops opposite our stay so many of them went there shopping. I rushed to the room after the autoshake and landed on the bed.
Next day we were flying back to our respective places. And so a well planned trip was concluding. It was very well organized, thanks to all of them. I am not sure who and all worked for it. Anyway
wish to thank all and especially Ajay Ghosh, his beautiful wife Rehna, Manoj and Deepa, Raphael and Sajeetha, their beautiful kids Achu and Melliza who kept the tempo high, Pascal and Mallu.., Sarsan , Sunil and Deepa, and definitely the stupendous effort of Pradeep who was the official cashier and had the main job of accounting each and every expense and Sunitha who gave me companionship and finally my dear husband without whose efforts I wouldn't have had this most beautiful and enjoyable moments. I don't know whether I have left out anybody while detailing but it's not intentional and would like to reassure that we had the best of the best times and my special love to Ajay Ghosh and Sajeetha as they really kept the fire of fun and joy burning 😊 Closing this travelgog with the expectations of the next journey planned for the next year, we bid adieu to each other and left Srinagar.
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